Marverick (Pump Marker)

Marverick is made by ACI ( Air Concept Industries), Its a pump marker, meaning that it needs to be re-cocked after every shot with the pump arm which goes around the barrel (kinda like a shotgun). It can be used to play stock class (marker is powered by 12 gram CO2 cartrige and has only 12 balls in the small tube loader). But it plays very well powered by a 9oz or 12oz CO2 tank and with standard 200 round hopper. Most pump marker have better accuracy, partly because you are forced to aim instead of mindlesly fire away round by round, and partly because better accuracy compensates for lower rate of fire. In any case it is a great marker. Its voted great marker straight out of the box.

Some of the features: its a solid design hard to break even where some pieces are plastic, has a ani-double cocking mechanism (can't cock the marker twice) and anti-double feed system (can't load more than 1 ball into the chamber although I kinda proved that wrong with enough force). Its light weight, hard to jam or break internals, and can be field stripped with a penny (or any other coin, no screw drivers or hex keys required unless you want to take off the handle).

Un-modified on a standard spring this marker shoots at 230 - 250 fps, and shoots straight 120 feet on stock barrel. With unported barrel the shot sounds like a gun shot.

Marverick has a slightly better version called Hornet also made by ACI and Trracer and Tagmaster which are made by PMI. Most parts between those 4 are interchangeble (i said most). Some other pumps other there are the famous Phantom, Brass Eagle Stingray (version 1 and 2), Sheridan PGP and old Tippmann Pump.

Marverick has better barrels, but the tock 12 inch one is very good it is very loud and has no prting. Other barrels are made also by ACI - True Flight (riffed) and Zero Gravity (spiral ported) barrels (those can be found on E-Bay mostly). JJ company makes and sells on their website the JJ Ceramic teflon coated barrel for this marker as well.

It looks like most spyder(spyder clone) like trigger frames will fit this marker, and before you start thinking "I can put an electric frame on this baby!!" stop and think that this is a pump! Actually, on the 2005 D-Day Event I saw a kid who put a VL Revolution on the marverick, seems kinda pointless since you will never reach anything faster than 3 balls per second with this no matter how strong and fast your arms are.

You can also attach an expansion chamber or regulator to this marker if you get a bottom line setup, the rear of the marker is a standard ASA port ready to accept any thing with that thread. I will be playing with this marker and see what can be improved, I know that to lower the ball velocity I either need a regulator to lower the pressure or to cut down the spring by a few rings (cutting the spring is cheaper! and you get one extra in the box with the marker).

Update!

I took the marker to Skirmish USA and played with it through out the day here is a on field review:

Setup:

Stock Marverick, with clear VL elbow and standard 200 round VL hopper, 9 oz. CO2 tank

First of all this marker is light! can't stress that enough, and when using it all you need is a leg strapped single pod of ammo. I played wooded and structure fields with Marverick, it takes time to adjust to a different type of play, here every shot counts, with stock barrel the marker is incredibly loud, and amazingly accurate, the ball flyies straight for about 100 - 150 feet before the gravity gets the best of it, and doesn't go off course a lot ( balls did start to fly wierd when I broke some paint, paint's fault not marker's I was using old batch from like 6 months ago). Another cool feature is that if you hold down the trigger and keep pumping the gun it keeps firing one by one ( that's in case you need to make some cover fire).

Important! Check your trigger frame, mine had the trigger spring put in wrong and the marker woul not fire sometimes when I pulled the trigger because the shear never caught on the valve mechanism, I fixed that after I got home (took the trigger frame apart, pulled out the trigger and the shear and re adjusted the sping which should fit into a small hole). Also! if you tighten the screw holding the handle the trigger works very roughly, so loosen it up a bit for smoot working trigger.